Comment: 315m, A1. Likely the easiest aid-climb up the North face, but it still does not come for free. Gear tip: Triple to quadruple rack from small cams to #1 (black diamond). Double #2 and #3, one time # 4. Lots of very small-, small- and medium-sized nuts. One pecker might come in handy, but it is possible without, and the ethics rather suggest to avoid it! In winter you’ll be happy with a lot of peckers and less cams.
FA: Geir AndersenMikael NilsenMårten Blixt
FA date: 01/07-95
Original grade: n/a
55m. Start right of the big overhang 20 meters above the ground, under a small overhang. Pass the overhang on the right to a thin crack in a dihedral. Climb up the dihedral until you can traverse on big jugs to a dihedral on the left. Climb up this dihedral and continue straight up passing a small roof until you reach a belay under another small roof.
30m. Traverse under the roof out to the right and climb up via thin cracks just right of the nose. Make a belay on top of the nose.
25 m (can be combined with pitch 2). Traverse out right to a crack, climb up this crag and follow the easiest line to a slab with a portaledge bolt. In winter with icy conditions going straight up from the belay through a thin crack and traverse right later might be easier.
50m. Climb up low-angled narrow dihedral, becoming steeper and wider. Follow the crag until you reach a small slab at the bottom of the ship.
40m. Climb the dihedral right of the ship until you reach a small bulge in the dihedral.
60 m. Continue through the dihedral. Climb out on the left wall through cracks, passing a small roof and following zig-zag cracks. After these head for the crag a bit right to lower-angled terrain until you reach the master ledge. Enjoy the view and the comfort of not hanging in your harness..
55 m. Climb up the right-leaning crack from the middle of the ledge. Traverse out right on jugs to a big crack. Follow this up, passing a wide crag (# 4 cam) until you reach a ledge. Climb up the dihedral on the left side of the ledge for another 10 meter and traverse out left to a big ledge. From here you can scramble out to the left and up to the summit.