Det gylne hjørnet [7- (6b+)] (Storstolpan / Storstolpan sydvegg) | Klatring i Tromsø
photographer: Unknown
photographer: Eik Kolstrup
photographer: Unknown
Type: Trad
Nr: 1
Comment: A beautiful route aiming for the obvious yellow dihedral at the upper left of the face. Perfect granite and very well protected. Green route on the overview. First route on the wall. A better start is to follow pitch #1 of "Fjellvåken" instead (blue route on topo). FFA Patrick Stoll, Mayeul Marcadella 10.08.19.
FA: Eik KolstrupErlend Hjertholm Fiskerud
FA date: 01/09-16
Original grade: 7- (6b+)
Page views (since 2019.10.09): 46
5 (5b)
Follow pitch #1 of "Fjellvåken" instead (grade 5, 30m). Belay at the large ledge to avoid too much rope drag.
6- (6a)
Climb up flakes to a small ledge. Traverse on it a few meters to the right, then head for the grey dihedral. (35m)
6- (6a)
Follow the grey dihedral up to a nice, large ledge on the left. (30m)
5+ (5c)
Start at the left end of the ledge and climb up aiming at the obvious yellow dihedral. (20m)
6+ (6b)
Follow the steep ramp up to the roof which you bypass to the left to traverse right above the roof to a half hanging belay at the base of the "golden dihedral". (25m - Could perfectly be linked with pitch #4)
7- (6b+)
Climb up the "golden dihedral" to a large ledge at the left at the end of the dihedral (35m). Exit to "Ersfjordstravers renna" possible from here..
6 (6a+)
Extension: Continue up the "stepped" off-width (cam #4 helps) and straight up to gain more gentle terrain. Climb a last steep step to reach the top of the pillar. (50m, FA: Patrick Stoll, Mayeul Marcadella, This pitch can also be climbed isolated.)


Mayeul Marcadella
7- (6b+)
Likely to become a classic on this wall
Patrick Stoll
7- (6b+)
Pitches 5 and 6 are exceptionally good. Pitch 3 unfortunately somewhat vegetated, but still enjoyable.


No comments