Veien til uglas hjerte [6 (6a+)] (Storstolpan / Renneveggen) | Klatring i Tromsø
Type: Trad
Nr: 4
Comment: An excellent intro into the third pitch of "Ugler i mosen", "Ratatosk", "Albatrossen" or exit back to the gully. A must for crack enthusiasts. Start at the bottom of the pillar (South-West ridge of Storstolpan) to the west (climbers left) of the "Ersfjordstraverse renne".
FA: Kjersti HervikPatrick Stoll
FA date: 11/08-19
Original grade: 6 (6a+)
Page views (since 2019.10.09): 39
6 (6a+)
Climb up flakes with unlikely hand jams until reaching a roof. Traverse underneath the roof to the right to gain a good ledge (20m).
6 (6a+)
Step out at the right side of the ledge to gain a big crack. Climb to the right of a huge block and then to the right around a corner to a stance on a slab (25m).
6- (6a)
Bypass a underneath a big rock at the quest of the ridge to the right to gain the ridge (crux). (From here the same as "Ugler i mosen"). Then enjoy the exposed pinackle climbing and traverse to the right to following a horizontal crack to gain a slab some meters below THE overhanging hand-crack. Belay at the corner for avoiding rope drag (40m).


Patrick Stoll
6 (6a+)
What a climb, combined with "Ugler i mosen"! Maybe the best route i have climb this year. And I have done some routes ;).


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