Mårten Blixt

15
FA
0
Tick
0
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0
Captured
0
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Captured
GradeFATickTotal
9- (8a)101
8 (7b+)202
7+ (7a)505
7 (6c)202
7- (6b+)101
6+ (6b)101
6 (6a+)101
n/a202

Public ascents:

01/01-05 Gullknausen / Brattveggen / Man and astroman 8 (7b+)
FA
55m. 1-2 m below the anchor of Man or astroman, make traverse to the right underneath the roof to join the crack line that goes all the way to the top. (Second half ca. grade N7.) It is possible to lower off from the El Dorado anchor after doing the first half.
01/01-04 Gullknausen / Brattveggen / Man or astroman 8 (7b+)
FA
30m. A journey of tiny short cracks, crimps and underclings through a couple of roofs.
01/01-03 Ersfjorden / Vestresvaet / Via Tony 7+ (7a)
FA
30m, 11 quickdraws. Delicous, technical climbing. Thin and sustained.
01/01-03 Ersfjorden / Crackveggen / Insulin 7 (6c)
FA
25m, 12 quickdraws. Arête and face climb. Technical balance act at the crux.
01/01-03 Gullknausen / Karatveggen / Gyllene tider 7- (6b+)
FA
30m
01/06-02 Hollenderan / Baugen, sørvestveggen / Ballongsnoppen 6+ (6b)
FA
250m - Traditional climbing in sport apparel! The 3rd pitch negotiates an unlikely yellow wall on jugs. Route ends dead blank 30m below the top, and one needs to travers right into Alexis/Alekos.
01/08-01 Hollenderan / Baugen, sørvestveggen / Thanatos direkt start 7+ (7a)
FA
150m - Same start as Krumtappen or Ballongsnoppen. Then a slab traverse left into the very beginning of the Thanatos crack (6+ to this point).
01/01-01 Ersfjorden / Ravneveggen / Infinita Tristeza 7+ (7a)
FA
25m, 10 quickdraws. As awkward and technical as only climbing on arêres can be.
01/01-01 Ersfjorden / Kjøleskapet / La Ligne Noire 7 (6c)
FA
12m
01/07-00 Hollenderan / Baugen, sørveggen / Bastillen 6 (6a+)
FA
250m - Climb through Trekanttaket. The 3rd pitch follows an obvious crack to the right of 40m-risset with a cruxy finish. Climb carefully past the Giljotinen (Guillotine), a hollow-sounding thin flake, on the fourth pitch.
01/06-00 Hollenderan / Baugen, sørvestveggen / Rena Ragnarok 7+ (7a)
FA
250m. Free variant of Hans Christian Doseths Ragnarok, which avoids the pendulum into Run Amok and continues through the Halvmånen on very thin ground (long fall potential, steep). Third pitch starts with a steep fingery crack, then traverses out right to a psychological crux and ends with a steep section at the very end of Halvmånen - 60 marvellous meters. Bring some small protection. Several finger-sized cams are nice on the third pitch.
01/02-00 Store Blåmann / Nordveggen / Disco 2000 n/a
FA
400m. A2+
01/07-95 Store Blåmann / Nordveggen / Ultima Thule n/a
FA
315m, A1. Likely the easiest aid-climb up the North face, but it still does not come for free. Gear tip: Triple to quadruple rack from small cams to #1 (black diamond). Double #2 and #3, one time # 4. Lots of very small-, small- and medium-sized nuts. One pecker might come in handy, but it is possible without, and the ethics rather suggest to avoid it! In winter you’ll be happy with a lot of peckers and less cams.
01/01-95 Ersfjorden / Rainmanveggen / Rainman 7+ (7a)
FA
55m. Obvious zig-zag on the clean wall. Fun climbing!
Store Blåmann / Nordveggen / Bongo Bar 9- (8a)
FA
400m First free ascent: Dave Macleod (08-2011)